Córdoba: the Mezquita's forest of arches, flower-filled patios and salmorejo

Construction of the Mezquita began in the eighth century under Emir Abd al-Rahman I and was expanded over two centuries. The result is a vast hall with hundreds of marble, jasper and granite columns holding double arches in red and white stripes that seem never to end. Walking in for the first time is an experience that stays with you.

After the Christian conquest in 1236, the mosque became a church. In the sixteenth century a Renaissance cathedral was built in the middle of the hall of columns. Emperor Charles V is said to have lamented, on seeing it, that something unique had been destroyed to build what could be built anywhere. Today the coexistence of the two is exactly what makes the building so special.

Don't miss the mihrab, the prayer niche decorated with golden mosaics, and the Courtyard of the Orange Trees at the entrance. The old minaret is now the bell tower and can be climbed for a view of the city.

The Roman Bridge crosses the Guadalquivir right in front of the Mezquita, with sixteen arches and two thousand years of history, though much rebuilt. On the other side stands the Calahorra Tower, a medieval fortress with a small museum about the coexistence of the three cultures.

The best view of the Mezquita is from this bridge, especially at sunset and at night, with the illuminated building reflected in the river. TV fans will recognise the setting from well-known productions.

By the river there are also old water mills, such as the Albolafia Mill with its large wheel, and a pleasant walk along the bank.

The old Jewish quarter lies right next to the Mezquita and is a maze of narrow streets, whitewashed houses, wooden doors and hidden patios. It's the city's most beautiful neighbourhood for getting lost on foot.

Calleja de las Flores is the most photographed street: narrow, with flowerpots on the walls and the Mezquita tower at the end. Nearby is the Córdoba Synagogue, from the fourteenth century, one of the few medieval synagogues to survive in Spain.

In a small square stands the statue of Maimonides, the Jewish philosopher and physician born in Córdoba in the twelfth century. It's a reminder that the city was for centuries a centre of learning for several faiths.

Córdoba's patios are inner courtyards of houses, covered in flowerpots hanging on the walls, with fountains and wells, designed to cool the house in the heat. In May, during the Patios Festival, residents open them to the public and compete for the most beautiful.

The festival is UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage and one of the most charming moments of the year in Spain. The San Basilio and Santa Marina neighbourhoods have the most famous patios, and there are marked routes to visit them.

Outside May, some patios stay open to the public through the year, and the Viana Palace, with twelve different patios, shows the tradition well.

The Alcázar of the Christian Monarchs is a fortress with magnificent gardens, pools, fountains and cypresses. It was here that the Catholic Monarchs received Christopher Columbus before his voyage to the Americas. The walls and towers offer good views of the Mezquita.

About 8 km from the city lie the ruins of Medina Azahara, a palace-city built in the tenth century by Caliph Abd al-Rahman III and destroyed only a few decades later. It was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2018 and shows halls, arches and gardens of the caliphal court.

You need transport for Medina Azahara, as it's outside the city. A private tour lets you combine the Mezquita, the centre and Medina Azahara on the same day, or visit Córdoba from Seville.