San Sebastián: Europe's most beautiful bay and the world capital of pintxos

La Concha beach curves in a half-moon along the bay, with golden sand, calm water and Santa Clara island in the middle, as if someone placed it there for the photo. The promenade, with its white balustrades and old lamps, is perfect for a walk at any hour.

At the western end, Ondarreta beach is more family-oriented and quiet. Beyond it, on the rocks, is the Comb of the Wind, a set of iron sculptures by Eduardo Chillida anchored in the rocks and battered by waves. On rough days, water bursts from holes in the ground like geysers.

In summer, boats run to Santa Clara island, with a small bar and a hidden beach. Swimming in the bay with the city in front of you is one of the best feelings of the trip.

The Parte Vieja, the Old Town, is a maze of narrow streets between the port and Mount Urgull, with the Basilica of Santa María del Coro and Plaza de la Constitución, a former bullring that still has numbered balconies.

But the real monument is the pintxo bars. Counters are covered with small edible works of art: bread with salt cod, mushrooms, anchovies, ham, octopus and the gilda, a skewer of olive, anchovy and chilli born here. Besides those on display, each bar has hot pintxos made to order, listed on boards on the wall.

The rule is simple: one or two pintxos and a drink in each bar, then move on. To drink, order txakoli, a slightly sparkling Basque white wine poured from a height into the glass, or cider. And save room for a slice of the famous Basque cheesecake, burnt outside and creamy inside.

At the western end of the bay, Mount Igueldo has a wooden funicular over a century old that climbs to the top. Up there is San Sebastián's most famous view, the whole bay curving like a shell, and an old amusement park with a vintage roller coaster that thrills more through nostalgia than speed.

On the other side, above the Old Town, Mount Urgull is climbed on foot along shady paths. At the top are the Castle of La Mota and a large Sacred Heart statue watching over the city. The views over the bay and sea are fantastic, and the walk is peaceful.

In the late afternoon, either is perfect for watching the sun go down over the bay and the city lights come on.

Across the Urumea river is the Gros neighbourhood, more relaxed and youthful, with Zurriola beach facing the open sea and its regular waves. It's the beach of surfers, surf schools and those who prefer a more informal atmosphere.

Next to the beach are the Kursaal buildings, two glass cubes designed by architect Rafael Moneo, which host the San Sebastián Film Festival every September. At that time the city fills with film stars and fans looking for them.

Gros also has many pintxo bars, sometimes more modern and less touristy than in the Old Town. It's a good alternative for your second night.

The Basque coast around San Sebastián is very beautiful. Getaria, about half an hour away, is a fishing village famous for grilled fish, seaside txakoli vineyards and the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum, dedicated to the couturier born there.

Hondarribia, by the French border, has a walled medieval centre and a fishermen's quarter with colourful houses and wooden balconies. Pasaia, closer by, is a port tucked between hills where Victor Hugo once lived for a while.

Biarritz, already in France, is less than an hour away: an elegant resort, surf waves and another food culture. A private tour lets you combine the Spanish and French Basque coast on the same day.