2Monkeys

The cooking and the experience

The key word here is creative. Don't come looking for grandma's salt cod: come to taste ideas, technique and produce handled freely. The MICHELIN star says what matters about the rigour in the kitchen. Menus change often, so it's best to arrive with an open mind and go with it.

At a restaurant of this level, the meal usually works as a sequence planned from start to finish. If you have dietary restrictions or allergies, say so when you book. The kitchen appreciates knowing ahead and you get to dine at ease.

The room and what to expect

Expect a long meal, the kind where nobody checks the clock. The exact format and length don't just vary from restaurant to restaurant; they change over time too. So confirm the details when you book. There's no public word of a strict dress code, but smart casual never fails at a starred dinner.

Prices are at the top of the scale (€€€€). It's a place for a special night, not an improvised dinner after a whole day walking in trainers. Book, choose your company well and save energy for the conversation.

The neighbourhood: Pena and Anjos

The area between Pena and Anjos is unfiltered Lisbon: hills, cobbles, old buildings and real neighbourhood life. Nearby is Campo dos Mártires da Pátria, a quiet garden for a break. From there you can reach Jardim do Torel, a discreet viewpoint overlooking Avenida da Liberdade, and ride back down to the Baixa on the Lavra funicular, the oldest in the city.

A good plan is to spend the afternoon exploring Intendente, with its cafés and renovated square, climb up to Torel at dusk to watch the light fall over the city, and head to dinner with an appetite sharpened by the hills. That's Lisbon for you: dessert is earned on foot.

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