Grenache

The cooking and the experience

The foundation here is French: technique, sauces taken seriously and respect for the produce. "Contemporary" means the kitchen isn't stuck in white-tablecloth classics and likes to reinterpret them. As in almost every starred house, the menu changes through the year, so there's no point arriving with a dish in mind. Come hungry and curious, and let yourself be guided.

The room and what to expect

Think of a meal to savour slowly, not a quick dinner before another plan. At this price level (€€€€) and distinction, tasting menus are common. When you book, check the day's format and whether the kitchen can adapt to allergies or restrictions. We have no word of a compulsory dress code, but smart and relaxed always fits. And wear comfortable shoes: the cobbles up to the courtyard are steep and slippery.

The neighbourhood: fitting dinner into your day

It's the best spot to end a day in old Lisbon. Start the afternoon at São Jorge Castle and wander down the alleys to the Santa Luzia and Portas do Sol viewpoints, with Alfama and the Tagus at your feet. If your legs still have it in them, head down to Lisbon Cathedral and climb back up at your own pace.

At the end of the day, the light over the rooftops is well worth the climb. After dinner the streets get quieter and it's nice to stroll a little before heading back. A friendly tip: going up by taxi or transfer and walking down is the combination your knees will thank you for.

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