Cannes: the Croisette, the red carpet and the Lérins islands

The Boulevard de la Croisette follows the bay for about two kilometres, with palm trees, gardens and Belle Époque hotels such as the Carlton, whose domes, legend says, were inspired by a famous courtesan. On the other side are sandy beaches, mostly private, with sunbeds and restaurants.

Strolling the Croisette, especially in the late afternoon, is Cannes's main activity. There are luxury shops, terraces and plenty of people-watching. The more modest public beaches are at the ends of the bay and near the Palais.

At the end of the day the sun sets behind the Esterel mountains, which turn red, and the lights of the yachts come on in the harbour. It's the most beautiful hour in the city.

Every May the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès hosts the Cannes Film Festival, one of the most prestigious in the world. During the festival, the red-carpeted staircase is the centre of attention, with stars, photographers and fans.

Outside the festival, the steps are often open and anyone can take their photo on them, pretending to arrive at a premiere. In front, the Allée des Étoiles has the handprints of famous actors and directors set in the ground.

The festival itself is mainly for professionals, but there are open-air screenings on the beach for the public. If you dislike crowds, avoid May: the city fills up and prices skyrocket.

Above the old port rises Le Suquet, the old quarter, with narrow, steep streets, colourful houses and restaurants with terraces. At the top are the church of Notre-Dame d'Espérance and the old castle, now a museum of objects from around the world, with a tower offering the best view of the bay.

At the foot of Le Suquet, the Marché Forville is Cannes's covered market, with fish, fruit, vegetables, cheeses and Provençal flowers. It's the ideal place to see everyday Cannes, away from the Croisette.

The old port, with fishing boats and yachts side by side, links Le Suquet to the Palais. At night the quarter's restaurants fill with locals and visitors.

A few minutes away by boat lie the Lérins islands. On Sainte-Marguerite, the largest, the Fort Royal held for years the mysterious Man in the Iron Mask, a prisoner whose identity remains an enigma. You can visit his cell and the fort's museum.

The island has pine and eucalyptus woods, trails and small coves of clear water, great for swimming and picnics. It's a complete contrast to the Croisette, less than half an hour away by boat.

On Saint-Honorat live monks who have kept an abbey there for centuries and grow vines, whose wine you can taste and buy. It's a place of silence, minutes from one of the most glamorous cities in the world.

Antibes, about 20 minutes away, has a walled old town, a Provençal market and the Picasso Museum, in a seaside castle where the painter worked. Juan-les-Pins, next door, is famous for its beaches and jazz festival.

Grasse, inland, is the world capital of perfume, with factories and museums where you learn how perfumes are made and can even create your own. Roses and jasmine are grown in the fields around.

Nice, Monaco and the Riviera's hilltop villages are less than an hour away. A private Côte d'Azur tour lets you combine Antibes, Grasse or Saint-Paul-de-Vence on the same day.