Zunzum Gastrobar

The cooking and the experience

The cooking is contemporary, with the Marlene Vieira Group's signature. The name doesn't lie: it's a gastrobar, so the idea is to eat well in an informal setting, without ceremony. The Bib Gourmand says what matters: good food at a price that doesn't scare. The menu changes over time, so go with an open mind and ask the team what's working well that day.

The room and the atmosphere

Jardim do Tabaco occupies old riverside warehouses, and that industrial side gives the place an urban, friendly feel. Expect a lively atmosphere, closer to a bar with good food than a white-tablecloth dining room. No jacket or tie needed: smart but comfortable clothes are perfect. It can be a quick lunch between visits or a longer dinner, at your own pace.

The neighbourhood: between Alfama and the river

Santa Apolónia is where Alfama comes down to the Tagus, which makes Zunzum the perfect stop halfway through a day on foot. In the morning, climb Alfama's alleys, peek into the National Pantheon and finish at the Santa Luzia or Portas do Sol viewpoints, with the city at your feet. From there it's downhill all the way to the restaurant. Right next door is the Fado Museum, ideal for digesting, and the Cruise Terminal is on the doorstep too.

If you prefer the other direction, walk along the riverbank to Praça do Comércio. On the way you'll pass the Casa dos Bicos, with its diamond-point stone façade. It's a flat walk with the Tagus always beside you, a rare thing in a city of hills.

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