Comporta: endless sand, rice fields and the fishermen's pier on stilts

The Comporta coast is an almost continuous stretch of sand dozens of kilometres long, between Tróia and Melides, with dunes, pine forests and clean Atlantic water. Comporta, Carvalhal, Pego and Torre beaches are the best known, each reached by boardwalks over the dunes and some with beach restaurants.

Even in August, a few minutes' walk from the access points gives you a patch of sand to yourself. The sea is Atlantic, cool and sometimes wavy, so respect the flags and stick to lifeguarded areas.

At the end of the day, the light over the dunes and the sea is soft and golden. There are horse rides along the beach at sunset, one of the most beautiful experiences in the area.

Behind the beaches lie the rice fields, among the largest in Portugal, fed by the waters of the Sado estuary. In spring the fields are green and flooded; at the end of summer, golden. It's a rare landscape in the country and very photogenic.

The rice fields and surrounding marshes are a paradise for birds. Storks nest on poles and chimneys, and herons, flamingos and other waterbirds appear in large numbers, especially in autumn and winter.

The Sado Estuary Nature Reserve protects this area, which is also home to a population of bottlenose dolphins. Boat trips to see them leave from Setúbal and sometimes from Tróia.

Near Comporta is Carrasqueira, a small fishing village famous for its stilt pier: wooden walkways on stilts that zigzag into the estuary, with small huts where fishermen keep their nets.

It was built because low tide left the boats stuck in the mud, and the fishermen needed to reach the water. The result is one of the most photogenic structures in Portugal, especially at sunset, with reflections in the water and colourful boats.

It's a working place, not a museum: walk carefully, respect the fishermen and don't go into the huts. The visit is short but memorable.

North of Comporta, the Tróia peninsula ends opposite Setúbal, with calm, clear-water beaches on the estuary side, a marina and hotels. A ferry links Tróia and Setúbal in a few minutes, a beautiful way to arrive or leave.

Tróia is home to the Roman Ruins of Tróia, a large Roman fish-salting complex by the water. The tanks where garum, the Romans' fish sauce, was made are still visible, along with baths and a necropolis.

On the estuary side the water is warmer and calmer than on the Atlantic coast, which makes Tróia's beaches a good choice for small children.

With so much rice around, it's no surprise it stars at the table. Razor-clam rice, seafood rice, duck rice and fish rice appear on almost every menu, always made with local rice, creamy and full of flavour.

Comporta has very popular beach restaurants, some relaxed and chic, and traditional taverns in the village and in Carrasqueira with grilled fish and fried cuttlefish at friendlier prices. On summer weekends, book ahead.

The village also has design, homeware and beachwear shops, many in old rice warehouses. Strolling there in the late afternoon before dinner is part of the ritual.