Costa da Caparica: 30 km of sand across the Tagus

Costa da Caparica is an almost continuous string of beaches, each with its own style. Near the town, Tarquínio, CDS and Nova beaches are the most urban, with stone groynes, bars and lots of people. They're practical, well served by transport and lively.

Further south along the coast the mood changes: beaches like Rainha, Castelo, Bela Vista and Fonte da Telha are wider and calmer, with dunes and the Fossil Cliff behind them. The further you go, the more space on the sand and the more silence.

In summer, the Transpraia, a small open-air train, runs for several kilometres along the dunes and stops at many beaches along the way. It's a fun way to reach the more distant beaches without trudging across hot sand.

Caparica is one of the best places to learn to surf near Lisbon. Waves are consistent almost all year and the beaches by the town have many schools, with beginner lessons and board and wetsuit included.

The groynes create more organised waves at certain spots, popular with local surfers. If you already surf, there are several breaks to explore along the coast, depending on wind and tide.

Even without a board, watching the surfers in the late afternoon, with the sun dropping into the sea and the boards in silhouette, is one of Caparica's free shows.

Behind the beaches rises the Fossil Cliff of Costa da Caparica, a sedimentary rock face with layers of different colours, protected as a landscape. The rocks hold fossils of marine animals from millions of years ago, when the sea reached here differently.

Next to the cliff is the Mata dos Medos, a pine forest planted in the eighteenth century to hold the dunes in place, with peaceful trails and shade. It's a good plan for a cool morning or to escape the beach wind.

From the top of the cliff, at viewpoints near Fonte da Telha and Capuchos, the view sweeps along the whole coast to Cabo Espichel. At sunset it's one of the most beautiful landscapes in the Lisbon region.

On the way to Caparica is Almada, the city across the Tagus. Its great landmark is the Sanctuary of Cristo Rei, with the statue of Christ with open arms over the river, inaugurated in 1959. A lift takes you up to the viewpoint, with a spectacular view over Lisbon, the bridge and the estuary.

Below, in Cacilhas, where the ferries from Lisbon arrive, there are many seafood and fish restaurants and a riverside walk facing the capital. Old Almada has viewpoints and a panoramic lift, Boca do Vento, that goes down to the river.

Combining Cristo Rei with an afternoon in Caparica is easy, especially with private transport. It's a way of seeing Lisbon from the outside, which is one of the best ways to see it.

Caparica's beach restaurants serve grilled fish, sardines in summer, squid, fried cuttlefish and seafood rice, often with tables on the sand and a sea view. At the end of the day, the beach bars become meeting points for the sunset.

In town, the simpler taverns and seafood places offer good prices and fresh fish of the day. There are also kiosks and Berliner doughnuts sold on the sand, an institution of Portuguese beaches.

In Cacilhas, by the river, the seafood restaurants are a classic for dinner before taking the ferry back to Lisbon, with the city lit up across the water.