Ericeira: waves, sea urchins and a white village that lives for the sea

Ericeira's historic centre can be walked in no time, but nobody walks it quickly. The low houses are whitewashed, with doors and windows painted blue, a fishing-village tradition that is now the town's trademark. Its heart is Largo Jogo da Bola, a square with trees, café terraces and benches where locals discuss other people's lives with great professionalism.

From there, the streets run down to the sea. Head to the Chapel of Santo António, small and white, perched on the cliff above Praia dos Pescadores. It is the most photographed viewpoint in town, especially late in the afternoon. Below, fishing boats are still hauled onto the sand, and the staircase down to the beach is the best cardio test in the region.

Ericeira also has a little-known historical side: in 1910 the last king of Portugal, Manuel II, left from here for exile after the Republic was proclaimed. A plaque marks the spot. Today the village welcomes people from all over the world but keeps its local shops, bakeries and taverns where people order «the usual».

In 2011 Ericeira became Europe's first World Surfing Reserve, a title given to coastlines with exceptional waves and communities that protect them. Within a few kilometres there are many quality breaks, some for beginners, others best admired respectfully from the cliff.

Ribeira d'Ilhas is the most famous beach: a wide bay of long, regular waves that has hosted world tour events. Coxos and Pedra Branca are for experienced surfers, with rocky bottoms and little patience for mistakes. If you have never stood on a board, Foz do Lizandro and the village beaches have surf schools offering group and private lessons, with board and wetsuit included.

Even without surfing, it is worth going to Ribeira d'Ilhas late in the afternoon, sitting on the lawn at the viewpoint and watching the sets roll in. It is the most relaxing sport in the world for those on the sidelines.

Praia dos Pescadores and Praia do Sul are right in the village and the most practical for families: sand, shelter and cafés a few steps away. Praia do Norte, or Algodio, has a breakwater and sits close to the centre. To the south, Foz do Lizandro brings river and sea together, with a huge stretch of sand and calmer water where the river flows in.

To the north, the coast gets wilder. São Lourenço mixes sand and rock with strong waves, and São Julião, towards Sintra, is wide and good for walks. At low tide, rock pools full of life appear, perfect for curious children and adults pretending not to be.

An honest note: the Atlantic is cold here, even in midsummer, and currents can be strong. Choose lifeguarded beaches, respect the flags and enter the water with as much dignity as you can. The first dip always hurts, and so does the second.

Ericeira is one of the seafood capitals of the Lisbon area. Sea urchins are its most famous speciality, and there is even a festival devoted to them. The taste is intense, pure ocean, and divides opinion like few other snacks. Try them at least once, if only to say you did.

The fish comes from the harbour straight to the grill: sea bass, sea bream, sardines in summer, octopus, crab and goose barnacles. Seafood rice is a must, and the seaside restaurants serve it in pots that seem designed for a battalion. Order fish by the kilo and ask what came in that morning.

For something sweet, look for the «ouriços», little egg pastries shaped like sea urchins, and honey cakes. In the evening, the village bars fill with tanned surfers explaining the wave they caught to people who didn't ask.

About 10 km away is Mafra, with its vast eighteenth-century National Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that combines palace, basilica and convent and holds one of the most beautiful libraries in Europe. Next door, the Tapada Nacional de Mafra, a former royal hunting ground, is perfect for spotting deer and walking in the shade.

Sintra is about half an hour away and pairs beautifully with Ericeira on a coastal route: palaces in the morning, beach and fish in the afternoon. Along the way, rural villages and the seaside road show a quieter Portugal.

Without a car, connections between Ericeira, Mafra and Sintra require patience with bus timetables. A private tour or transfer solves that and lets you combine all three in one day, with stops at viewpoints that buses don't make.