Guimarães: the castle where Portugal was born and the squares where life is good

Guimarães Castle was begun in the tenth century on the orders of Countess Mumadona Dias, to protect the monastery and the town from attacks from the north and south. Later it was the home of the counts of Portucale, and it is traditionally named as the birthplace of Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal.

It was near here, in 1128, that the Battle of São Mamede was fought, in which Afonso Henriques defeated his own mother's troops and took control of the county. It is the moment the Portuguese consider the beginning of the country. A complicated family, a whole country as a result.

The castle is small and sturdy, with a keep in the centre and battlements you can walk along. Beside it is the little Church of São Miguel do Castelo, where, according to tradition, the first king was baptised. The view from the top shows the whole city, with red roofs sloping down to the centre.

Just below the castle is the Palace of the Dukes of Braganza, a fifteenth-century palace with very tall chimneys and the air of a northern European castle. It was built by the first Duke of Braganza and, after centuries of neglect, restored in the twentieth century, with more imagination than historical accuracy, according to some experts.

Inside are huge rooms with wooden ceilings, tapestries, antique furniture, weapons and a chapel with stained glass. The Banquet Hall, with a ceiling shaped like an upturned ship's hull, is the most impressive.

In front of the palace stands the statue of Afonso Henriques, with sword and shield and the look of a man who accepts no complaints. It is one of the city's classic photos.

The historic centre of Guimarães has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001 and is one of the best preserved in the country. Granite streets, houses with wooden and iron balconies and medieval squares make the visit a walk through time, without overwhelming crowds.

Its heart is Largo da Oliveira, with the Church of Our Lady of Oliveira and the Padrão do Salado, a small Gothic monument commemorating a fourteenth-century battle. Next door, Praça de Santiago has old houses and terraces where locals gather in the late afternoon. Rua de Santa Maria links the centre to the castle and is one of the prettiest streets in town.

On Largo do Toural, the main square, is the wall bearing the words «Aqui nasceu Portugal». In 2012 Guimarães was European Capital of Culture, and since then it has gained cultural centres and a lively programme. The Couros area, with its old tanning pits, was added to the World Heritage listing more recently.

To see Guimarães from above, take the cable car up to Penha hill. The ride lasts a few minutes and passes over the trees, with the city shrinking below.

At the top there is a sanctuary, huge granite boulders, caves, forest paths and picnic areas. It's where Guimarães families spend their Sundays, and the fresh air feels good after the warm stone of the centre.

On clear days the view stretches across the Minho to distant mountains. At sunset it is one of the best viewpoints in the region. Check the time of the last cable car so you don't have to walk down.

Guimarães cooking is Minho at heart: rojões (fried pork), papas de sarrabulho, roast kid and bacalhau, served in generous portions with Vinho Verde. It isn't diet food; it's Sunday food.

For dessert, the city has two classics with convent origins. Toucinho do céu is a dense, very sweet almond and egg-yolk cake. Tortas de Guimarães are puff pastries filled with egg cream and chila squash jam. The old pastry shops in the centre are the place to try them.

In the late afternoon, the squares in the centre fill with terraces. Ordering a chilled Vinho Verde in Largo da Oliveira, with the Gothic monument in front of you, is one of the best ways to end the day.