Mafra: the giant palace, the bat-guarded library and the deer of the Tapada

Construction began in 1717 on the orders of King João V, to fulfil a vow for an heir. Tens of thousands of men worked on it, and the result was an enormous building with an imposing façade, two bell towers and an interior that seems never to end. José Saramago told this story in the novel «Baltasar and Blimunda», which many Portuguese read at school, with varying enthusiasm.

The visit goes through the royal apartments, the throne room, the hunting room with furniture made of deer antlers, and corridors so long that the king and queen had separate wings at opposite ends of the building. It is said they had to make appointments to see each other.

Since 2019 the Royal Building of Mafra, with the palace, basilica, convent, Cerco Garden and Tapada, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Even so, it gets far fewer visitors than the palaces of Sintra, which is a huge advantage if you like to visit calmly.

At the centre of the façade is the basilica, in marble of several colours, with an elegant dome and Italian sculptures. It has six historic organs, a rarity in the world, which can play together at special concerts. When that happens, the whole church vibrates.

The two towers house the Mafra carillons, one of the largest sets of historic bells in the world, ordered from Flanders. Legend has it that the king, on hearing the price, decided to order two instead of one. Guided tours of the towers run on specific dates, and carillon concerts take place through the year.

Even without a concert, it's worth sitting in the basilica for a few minutes. The light coming through the dome and the silence of the marble are among the most peaceful experiences near Lisbon.

The Mafra Palace Library is one of the most beautiful in Europe: a long cross-shaped hall with a marble floor, rococo wooden shelves and tens of thousands of old volumes, some very rare.

Like the Joanina Library in Coimbra, it has a very special night-security team: a colony of bats that comes out at night and eats the insects that might damage the books. You won't see them during the day, but it's nice to know the books have winged protection.

The library is seen from the entrance, and the moment the hall opens before your eyes is one of the most striking of the visit. Take your time: nobody is in a hurry here, not even the books.

The Tapada Nacional de Mafra was the kings' hunting ground, a large walled forest a few kilometres from the palace. Today it is a park where you can see red deer, fallow deer, wild boar and birds of prey along well-marked walking trails.

There are trails of various lengths, rides on a tourist train, archery activities and birds-of-prey demonstrations on certain days. It's a great option for families with children, who happily swap another gilded hall for a deer crossing the path.

It's best to go early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when the animals are most active. Bring water and proper shoes: the trails are dirt and some climb steeply.

The town of Mafra is small and quiet, with cafés around the palace and the Cerco Garden, the former convent garden, with a lake and shade. Mafra is also known for its bread, pão de Mafra, with a crisp crust and moist crumb, found in the bakeries of the area.

Ericeira, the village of surf and seafood, is about 10 km away, and Sintra half an hour. Combining Mafra and Ericeira in a day is easy and very pleasant: palace in the morning, beach and fish in the afternoon.

Without a car, connections between Mafra, Ericeira and Sintra depend on infrequent buses. A private tour or transfer lets you visit all three without stress and with stops at viewpoints along the way.