Peniche: cliffs, championship waves and the island of Berlenga

Peniche is one of the country's main fishing ports, and you feel it everywhere: in the smell of the sea, the colourful boats, the fish restaurants by the harbour and the market. The town is simple, honest and hard-working, without the airs of other beach destinations.

The sixteenth-century Peniche Fortress defended the coast for centuries. In the twentieth century, under the dictatorship, it was a high-security political prison, from which several prisoners escaped in 1960 in one of the most famous breakouts in Portuguese history. Today it is the National Museum of Resistance and Freedom, a moving place that tells this story through cells, testimonies and objects of the time.

Peniche also has an old tradition of bobbin lace, made by hand with dozens of small wooden bobbins. You can still see lacemakers at work, and there is a museum dedicated to this craft, which demands more patience than any surfer waiting for a wave.

At the tip of the peninsula is Cabo Carvoeiro, with its lighthouse and limestone cliffs cut by the sea into incredible shapes. In front rises the Nau dos Corvos, an isolated rock that looks like a ship under sail and is Peniche's postcard image.

There is a boardwalk and several viewpoints along the coast, where you can see layers of rock, caves and natural arches. In rough seas, the waves crashing against the cliffs are a show of raw power. In calm seas, the water turns a blue that hardly looks Atlantic.

It's one of the best spots in the region for sunset. Bring a jacket: the wind on the cape keeps no schedule and accepts no arguments.

Supertubos beach has one of the most famous barrelling waves in Europe and hosts a stop of the world surf tour. On big days, watching the pros ride through the tube is a show, even for those who have never touched a board.

Peniche's great advantage is the shape of the peninsula: there is always a sheltered beach on one side or the other, which makes it one of the best places in Europe to learn. Surf schools are everywhere, especially in Baleal.

Baleal is a small island linked to land by a sandy isthmus, with beaches on both sides, white houses and a relaxed surf vibe. In the evening, Baleal's bars fill with sun-tanned people and talk of waves.

The Berlengas archipelago lies about 10 km off the coast and is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The main island, Berlenga Grande, is reddish granite, with caves, coves of crystal-clear water and thousands of noisy seabirds.

The seventeenth-century Fort of São João Baptista is built on an islet linked to the island by a narrow stone bridge. It is one of the most beautiful images of the Portuguese coast. There are short trails across the island and boat trips into the caves, where the water has colours that look retouched.

Crossings leave from Peniche harbour, mostly from May to September, always depending on sea conditions. The number of daily visitors is limited to protect the island, so book ahead. And be prepared: the trip can be bumpy.

In Peniche you eat fish, and you eat it very well. Grilled sardines in summer, sea bass, sea bream, octopus, squid and the famous fish caldeirada, a stew served in generous pots with potatoes and bread for the sauce.

Goose barnacles, gathered from coastal rocks at considerable risk, are a pricey and much-loved delicacy. Try them at least once: the taste of the sea is intense, and eating them comes with a small show of splashes.

The restaurants by the harbour and along the seafront serve the catch of the day at reasonable prices. Ask what came in that morning and take advice. For dessert, local egg sweets round off the meal.