Santarém: Portugal's Gothic capital, the river plains and a castle in the Tagus

The Portas do Sol garden occupies the site of the old alcáçova, Santarém's Moorish fortress, and keeps part of the walls. It is the city's most famous viewpoint, with a wide view over the Tagus, its bridges and the plains to the horizon.

At sunset, the light over the river and fields is Santarém's best postcard. It's also a peaceful garden, with shade, benches and local families strolling in the late afternoon.

Nearby is the Torre das Cabaças, a medieval tower topped with curious clay gourds, which once told the city the time. Today it houses a small exhibition about time, and the view from the top is worth the climb.

Santarém is known as the capital of Portuguese Gothic, thanks to the medieval churches that still define its historic centre. The most important is the Igreja da Graça, with a huge rose window carved from a single stone and the tomb of Pedro Álvares Cabral, the navigator who reached Brazil in 1500.

The Church of Santa Maria de Marvila has an interior lined with seventeenth-century tiles, and the Church of the Holy Miracle keeps the story of a thirteenth-century Eucharistic miracle that still draws pilgrims. The cathedral occupies the former Jesuit college, with an imposing baroque façade on the main square.

The historic centre is easy to explore on foot, among churches, palaces and narrow streets. Don't expect crowds: in Santarém you still have time to read the plaques.

At Santarém's feet stretches the lezíria, the fertile plain flooded by the Tagus for centuries. It's a landscape of farmland, vineyards, poplars and country estates where Lusitano horses and fighting bulls are still bred.

Equestrian culture is very strong in the Ribatejo. Golegã, about 30 km away, is known as the capital of the horse, and in November it hosts the National Horse Fair, with thousands of riders, Lusitano horses and a festive atmosphere that fills the town. Stud farms and estates offer visits and horse rides throughout the year.

The National Agricultural Fair in Santarém is another highlight of the year, usually in June, with livestock, machinery, concerts and lots of food. It's a different and very authentic way to get to know rural Portugal.

About 40 km from Santarém, Almourol Castle rises on a small rocky island in the middle of the Tagus. It was rebuilt by the Knights Templar in the twelfth century and formed part of the defensive line protecting the centre of the country.

You reach the castle by a small boat that crosses from the riverbank near Tancos. The trip is short, and from the top the view over the river and green banks is one of the most beautiful in the region. At night, lit up, the castle looks like something out of a legend, and there are several.

Almourol lies on the way to Tomar and Fátima, which makes it easy to combine them in one route. A private tour lets you see Santarém, Almourol and Tomar on the same day without timetable stress.

The Ribatejo eats well and plentifully. In Almeirim, across the river, sopa da pedra (stone soup) is an institution: a bean soup with sausages, meat and vegetables, served with a stone at the bottom of the pot. Legend says a friar made it with a stone and a good line of talk, convincing the villagers to give him everything else.

From the river come shad, fried or marinated, and eels. From the plains come pork, lamb and sausages. Almeirim melons are famous in summer, and Tejo wines go with everything.

For dessert, Santarém has pampilhos, a rolled cake filled with egg cream named after the pampilho, the staff used by the campinos, the bull herders. There are also celestes de Santa Clara, of convent origin. Save room.