Serra da Estrela: the roof of Portugal, snow, glacial valleys and buttery cheese

Torre stands at about 1,993 metres and is the highest point in mainland Portugal. To reach a round 2,000, a small stone tower was built on the summit in the nineteenth century, a rare case of a mountain topped up by national pride.

At the top there are old radar domes, shops selling regional products and, on clear days, a huge view over the range and its valleys. The road up to Torre is one of the great drives in the country, with bends, granite boulders and viewpoints every kilometre.

In winter, with snow, the road may close or require chains. Always check conditions before going up. In summer, Torre is a great starting point for walks across the plateau.

The Zêzere Glacial Valley is one of the most impressive U-shaped valleys in Europe, carved by a glacier during the last ice age. The Zêzere river rises here and flows down the valley to the village of Manteigas, between green slopes and rocks.

Along the way is Covão d'Ametade, a clearing of birch trees by the river, perfect for picnics, and Poço do Inferno, a waterfall in the forest that can freeze in winter. In autumn the valley's trees turn yellow and orange.

Manteigas is the prettiest village in the range, tucked into the valley floor. It has stone houses, thermal baths and good bases for a few days of walking. Since 2020 the range has been part of the Estrela Geopark, recognised by UNESCO.

When it snows, Serra da Estrela becomes Portugal's only ski resort, with slopes near Torre, lifts and equipment rental. It isn't the Alps and doesn't pretend to be, but for learning or a different kind of day it's great fun.

For many Portuguese families, the range is above all the place where children see snow for the first time. Snowmen, snowball fights and improvised sledges are as much part of the programme as skiing, or more.

Note: snow isn't guaranteed, and snowy weekends draw big crowds. Roads fill up, parking near Torre runs out and queues can be long. On weekdays the experience is much calmer.

The plateau has several mountain lakes, some natural and others created by dams, such as Lagoa Comprida. The most curious is Covão dos Conchos, where a huge circular hole, like a giant plughole, drains the lake's water through a tunnel. You reach it on foot, on a walk of a few hours.

The mountain villages around, of granite and schist, show a rural life that still survives: animal pens, terraces, communal ovens and shepherds with their flocks. Seia, Gouveia, Covilhã and Guarda are the gateway towns, each with its own charm.

There are marked trails for every level, from short walks around the lakes to full-day crossings. Bring a map or app, water and warm layers: fog can roll in without warning and make the plateau confusing.

Serra da Estrela cheese is one of Portugal's most famous, made from raw sheep's milk and curdled with cardoon flower. When it's at its buttery best, you cut off the top and eat it with a spoon. It's intense, creamy and addictive, and has protected designation of origin.

There is also requeijão, a fresh, mild curd cheese eaten with pumpkin jam, cured sausages, roast kid and lamb, and rye bread. Cheese dairies and regional shops sell cheeses of various ages, and many let you taste before buying.

The range is also home to the Serra da Estrela dog, a Portuguese breed of flock guardian, big, shaggy and calm-eyed. You'll see them with the shepherds and sometimes for sale at fairs, though they don't fit well in a suitcase.